Hardwood floors always last for decades, but excessive floor traffic is going to wear the finish down sooner or later. Refinishing is one of the compromises in buying hardwood.
The good news is it isn’t too hard to do. Your only challenge is it takes quite a bit of time. If you don’t have a lot of time, hiring a professional refinisher is your best bet.
However, refinishing can be an enjoyable household task giving longer life to your floor. Even if you don’t have all the tools necessary, renting them saves you money.
Things You Need to Prep
Before doing anything, you’ll want to remove the baseboard from around the edges of your walls. Doing so is just for protection since refinishing is going to involve using sanding machines.
Using a sander could damage the baseboard molding if not careful. For safety, removing it is better, and it’s something a professional does as well.
Next, you need to check over the hardwood and make sure it has no issues. You may have some squeaks or loose boards needing fixing first.
To take care of any loose boards, simply nail them down. For squeaks, you can pound a nail into the floor joist. Taking care of this now means avoiding tearing everything up to take care of an issue later.
Renting or Buying a Drum Sander
Sanding your hardwood floor is going to take a little bit of time, and the equipment used may be kind of bulky. A drum sander is the best tool to use here, something easily rentable through rental supply stores.
Use your drum sander to remove scratches off the hardwood, starting off with coarser sandpaper, then gradually moving to 100 grit.
Keep in mind using your sander won’t always pick up every stain on the hardwood floor. It does a good job on most scratches, yet chips in the wood may require further repair.
Pet urine may require buying a hardwood stain remover cleaner to pick up before finishing the refinishing process. One thing for sure is using a drum sander saves you time having to sand by hand, unless you have a very small floor space.
Refinishing the Edges of Your Floor
The next tool to buy or rent is an edger. These help sand edges and corners of all your rooms that the drum sander couldn’t reach.
Before using this, take some time to sweep up or vacuum any debris the drum sander left behind on the floor.
Once using your edger, you’ll want to upgrade the grades of the sandpaper gradually while using it. Keep the same grade of sandpaper during one sanding session for consistency of appearance.
Some of the likeliest places you’ll use your edger is on stairs or other hard-to-reach areas. Bathrooms are a probable place as well since fixtures are more likely to get in the way when using the drum sander.
Buffing, Adding Stain, and Finish
Another tool to rent is a floor buffer. While you could skip this part, it’s only for more thoroughness in keeping the floor smooth after the sanding. Also, it helps remove further scratches to the hardwood surface.
After finishing, be sure to vacuum any dust left behind. Then buy some interior hardwood stain. As always, be sure to apply in the direction of the grain in the wood.
Your choice of finishes are either water-based polyurethane, or oil-based. Latter takes more time to dry, which may be preferable if you need to apply multiple coats to make it look smooth.
Wear a protective mask when working with the oil-based finishes. In-between several coatings of the finish, you might want to do a little more sanding with 220-grit paper to make it look pristine.
How hard is it to sand and refinish hardwood floors?
Determining how hard it is to sand and refinish your floor goes strictly on how much time you have available.
Since time is valuable to most people nowadays, it might be better to hire a professional if you’ve never done refinishing before. On the other hand, a lot of people do refinishes on their own.
Part of making the decision also comes down to budget, plus experience using equipment like sanders.
Let’s look and see how hard refinishing might really be for you based on various factors.
How Hard is it to Prep Your Floors Before Refinishing Begins?
Checking your hardwood for issues beforehand won’t take too long, unless planning to refinish in multiple rooms.
What takes the most time and effort is the sanding and buffering you’ll be doing next. Buffering usually occurs before anything else occurs (or after sanding), and it may require renting a floor buffer machine to get it done.
Doing this on your own is relatively easy, especially if scratches on the hardwood surface are minimal. The point, of course, is to buff away any scratches or other flaws before doing sanding or laying down stains/finish.
What might take the most time is hunting down a buffer tool in a rental store. While most rental supply stores have them, it’s always going to take less time if you already own one. Then again, renting will be far cheaper than having to buy a buffer since they run as much as $300-$400.
How Hard is it to Use a Drum Sander?
Renting a drum sander to sand your hardwood floor so it’s as smooth as possible is not too hard to do. Operating it is another thing.
These are known for being challenging to use because they’re so powerful. Without experience operating one, it could sand deeper grooves into your hardwood, causing permanent damage.
With careful, controlled use, though, it eliminates scratches and smooths over your hardwood beautifully. Most people using these on their own rent them because of the high cost in purchasing.
Whether you use it yourself or not is up to you. Gauge whether it’s smart to use on your own based on past experience. If not sure, a professional knows how to do it right. Although there is one type of sander you can use without much problem.
Operating a Floor Edger or an Orbital Hand Sander
To sand along edges of walls, using a floor edger is essential to rent or own. Using this is not too problematic since you just hold it in your hand and has no potential to get out of control.
The same goes with orbital sanders. They’re larger while using a continual sheet of sandpaper going around in a loop to sand small or large floor areas.
Don’t hesitate to use these yourself to cut down on the cost of a professional doing every task. Dividing things up between doing simpler tasks on your own and letting professionals handle the tougher things is a good compromise.
If you do let the professionals do everything, make sure you tip them since it may require doing extra things (like moving furniture) to complete correctly.
Applying Stains and Finishes Are the Easy Bookend
Your only challenge in applying stains to your hardwood floor is remembering to apply it in the direction of the natural hardwood grain. Keeping this in mind will make that part another easy task after all the sanding and cleanup afterward.
Once applying the finish, you may have to wear a mask if it’s oil-based polyurethane. Applying this may take a full day since it usually requires several coats, plus further sanding in-between.
At least you have a basic idea of the difficulty level here. Doing these all yourself won’t necessarily get it done any faster than with a professional since the sanding is a slow, deliberate process.
How long does it take to refinish hardwood floors?
The time element to refinishing hardwood floors has only been touched on here and in other articles available on the subject. While you might get a general answer elsewhere, doing a deep-dive into exactly how long it takes will help you make better decisions on whether to do refinishing on your own.
We have to regroup back to the notion most people don’t have time to do things like this. Unless you’re lucky to be retired, on a vacation, or in quarantine, reliable professionals are always available to get the job done.
Exactly how long it takes for certain tasks to complete depends on how fast you work and your personal skills.
How Long Does it Take to Buffer Your Floor?
If checking your hardwood floorboards first takes a relatively brief amount of time, buffering is going to take a lot longer. However, most flooring experts agree it’s not what takes the longest.
It’s the refinishing taking the most time on the clock. However, looking at the time it takes to buff your floor should be looked at first since it’s going to be the most significant task needed next to sanding.
Depending on how fast you work, it could take at least half a day to get your floor fully buffed. Part of this involves having to visit a home supply store to either buy or rent a floor buffer.
Renting a buffer machine is already noted as the smarter option. Still, using it might take further hours to fully buff away flaws in the hardwood surface. The more scratches you have on your floor, the longer it usually takes, depending on how pristine you want the wood to look.
Sanding Your Floor Could Take Longer Than You Think
Operating a drum sander is, sorry to say, going to take some time. What makes using these sanders a challenge is they’re a bit hard to use because of how aggressive they are in the sanding process.
Trying to keep the machine from not sanding deep grooves into your hardwood could take more time than planned. The time involved also goes on how large your floor space is. A big room could take several hours to sand.
Then add in the time needed to use the sanding edger around edges of walls. You may feel so exhausted doing the drum sander job alone that it might be worth waiting to do the rest of your sanding the next day.
Since sanding is sometimes very exacting, it can take almost as much time as adding the stains or finishes. Having to upgrade the sandpaper gradually on the drum sander also adds in extra time, particularly if you have no experience working with the machine.
The Time Taken for Cleanup
Always add in time necessary to do the cleanups following the buffing and sanding. Both of these tasks are going to leave some debris on the floor, requiring sweeping and vacuuming.
Cleaning up debris can sometimes take longer than expected, which might take another couple of hours or more. Don’t think you can skip over this step since you need to keep your hardwood floor clean before putting down the final finish.
Once you do the shopping for your stains and finish, the multiple coats required could add a second or third day to the total time involved.
What Kind of Finish Takes the Most Time to Apply?
The stains you buy to apply to your hardwood won’t take too long to spread, if sometimes requiring several coats to ensure smoothness. Plus, it generally takes up to a day or two for the stains to dry, particularly if the stain is darker.
Oil-based polyurethane finishes are notoriously known for taking a lot longer to apply and dry. Because they can last for years, the extra time taken in the application is always worth it.
In total, it could take up to 30 days for the curing process to complete. To ensure the best results, you might want to just leave the room alone for a few weeks before moving furniture and rugs back in.
How much does it cost to refinish hardwood floors?
After knowing how much time and effort refinishing your hardwood floor will require, it’s time to understand the cost realities.
When attempting to refinish your hardwood on your own, the cost differences between DIY and hiring a professional might not be all that far apart. Nevertheless, knowing you can get the refinishing steps done right without damage is worth any price.
The best way to approach talking about cost is look at the feasibility of doing the refinishing yourself and the investment in tools to get everything done. Then we’ll compare to the general cost of most contractors hired to do refinishing.
Cost of Renting a Sander
As already seen, sanding the hardwood is a necessary part of the refinishing process. Without doing that first, your hardwood floor won’t look much different after the stains and finish go down.
Besides, you can’t really put down the finish and expect it to cure properly if the floor looks overly rough. Sanding with a drum sander might be a bit challenging, though buying one of these will cost much more than renting.
The general cost of renting a drum sander is around $70 per day, according to most home supply stores. Some of those stores give you good deals, as in offering several days free for further savings.
Don’t forget to invest in protective gear when using the drum sander. Safety goggles, a mask, plus gloves don’t cost a lot and may already be in your household. To clean up debris, you likely already have a broom and vacuum available. If not, invest in those first because debris cleanup will need doing several times while refinishing.
Cost of Renting an Edger
Doing the edging while sanding your hardwood floor may require renting a floor edger, something reasonably affordable. Most outlets rent them for around $50 per day.
Since the entire process of sanding and buffing might take three days, you’ll generally need around $300 to afford all the rental equipment. A price like that is not bad, if just the beginning of the overall budget you’ll spend.
You’ll also have to buy sandpaper to use on the drum sander and the floor edger. On places like Amazon, you can get one large package of different sandpaper grits for as little as $16.
In many cases, some of the things you’ll need may exist in your garage. Sometimes items like sandpaper are stored away for future use, only to suddenly become useful when a floor refinishing project comes up.
Cost of Renting a Floor Buffer
Most places renting floor buffers offer them for $40 per day, easily one of the most affordable of all rental equipment.
As many of those rental stores note, however, you need complete training in operating the buffers. You’re always required to wear the appropriate safety equipment during use. Also, you’re solely responsible for the safe use of the machine.
This is still only the halfway point in what you’ll have to spend. Next comes the stains and finishing. Latter may cost a bit more, depending on what kind of finish you purchase.
Costs of Stains and Finishes
Places like Home Advisor note that doing refinishing on your hardwood floor will cost two to three times less than if buying an all-new floor. Statistics like this should give you confidence in attempting to do the job yourself, if still affordable when hiring professionals.
Applying stains and finishes to the floor after the above work won’t cost a lot either. As always, it depends on the quality of the stains/finish you buy, plus the amount of floor space you have.
Stains usually cost $1 to $3 per foot, all based on product quality. Buying oil-based polyurethane finishes cost more per gallon than water-based. Expect to pay $20 to $40 per gallon for the oil-based kind.
Should current budget permit, it’s worth paying more since the longer-lasting aspect to oil-based finishes will prevent expensive repairs later. And you never know what your budget may be in a decade’s time.
DIY vs. Hiring a Pro
Consider one thing: If you’ve never done refinishing before, any mistakes made could cost more to fix than hiring a professional to get it done in the first place.
Most sources say the overall cost to get this done with a pro is between $990 to $2,110. All of that depends on size and other factors, not including unexpected issues.
Take some time to calculate it all to make the best decision while learning about other important aspects to how refinishing is done.
How often should you refinish hardwood floors?
The time element to refinishing your hardwood floor should also go by when you should refinish that floor. Some might think they need to refinish hardwood sooner than really necessary.
Others might try to let it go a little too long, hence causing enough damage to require a replacement.
Deciding when you need to refinish goes by a number of factors related to the floor’s age. Take a little time to plan this out carefully since you may have to refinish the floor several times in your lifetime.
The Thickness Level of the Hardwood Partly Determines When to Refinish
As a basic rule of thumb, you should try to refinish your hardwood floor at least once per decade. How thick the wood is will determine how fast it starts to fade in appearance.
A thinner wood (as in ¼-inch thick) will need a refinish sooner than if it’s ¾-inch thick. Even the thicker wood will need refinishing several times over the years before needing replacing.
You should be able to know how thick the wood is based on the information given to you when first buying the floor. Or, perhaps you’ve moved into a home with an aging hardwood floor already in there.
During this scenario, you may need to pull up the base trim to determine how thick it is exactly. Just general appearance of fading and visible scratches will be the best indicator, if damage not always being apparent to the naked eye.
Factors Determining How Often the Refinishing Should Be Done
All the dents and scratches hardwood gets after heavy foot traffic will give you plenty of physical evidence to consider refinishing. Those of you with a lot of kids in the house (or pets) will have no choice but take action, perhaps after a few years of excessive wear.
Discoloration is another sign, particularly if you rely on natural light coming in through large windows. Sunlight is not kind to hardwood over time, usually causing a faded look. Using curtains or blinds may help the next time after the first refinishing gets done.
Water could also cause enough damage where refinishing needs doing sooner than expected. Excessive water could turn the hardwood a dark color, indicating the wood is ruined. Regardless, just light amounts of water could make the wood look slightly gray. In that scenario, a refinishing will cost much less.
In some scenarios, you might notice a few rough patches on your hardwood after a couple of years. These could be hidden with a rug or a furniture item if not a widely visible problem.
What Type of Hardwood Shouldn’t Be Refinished So Often?
With hardwood differing based on the species of wood used, some types may not need refinishing quite as often as others. When using solid hardwood, it’s usually more susceptible to wear, if ultimately easier to refinish due to its consistent surface.
Engineered hardwood floors are out there, though, thanks to the evolution in flooring technology. Refinishing may not need doing on these types of floors quite as often, based on how much real hardwood is used on the top layer.
Once deciding to refinish, it’s a good idea to see what led to the scratches and dents in the first place. Preventing those issues as much as possible after the refinishing will help develop a general timeline on when you might need to refinish again.
Another big question you might have is: Should you do refinishing on your own every decade, or should a professional do it every time?
If You Can Do the Refinishing On Your Own the First Time…
Learning to do the refinishing on your own can be an educational experience, outside of taking care you don’t make any costly mistakes. Once you get it done correctly, you’ll have the skills to do it again in seven to ten years (or sooner if necessary).
Then again, as you age, it might be more difficult to deal with the physical labor involved. Running that drum sander could be a physical burden when you reach your elder years.
As you grow older, it might be a good idea to keep the phone numbers handy of refinishing specialists so you don’t have to worry about breaking your own back.
What kind of sander should you use to refinish hardwood floors?
Since sanding is a step you can’t avoid when it comes to refinishing a hardwood floor, you probably wonder what kind of sanders you’ll need.
It basically comes down to the three sanders we mentioned earlier. What kind of features will you need on those, though?
As you shop around to either buy or rent one, you’ll want to know how these operate and what kind of skill level you may need. Two are definitely easier to operate than the first.
A Closer Look At Your Drum Sander
If you’ve never used a drum sander, it’s one bulky piece of equipment noted for being extra heavy to lift. Those of you who can’t lift heavy things should immediately consider a professional using the drum sander on your floor.
The best way to describe a drum sander is by the drum part itself. It’s the drum weighing the most and where you place belts of sandpaper at varying degrees of grit.
Underneath is the sander mechanism, then a dust bag to capture dust. Some of that dust may not make it into the bag, though, usually requiring a little bit of cleanup after using.
Not very many people buy drum sanders because of their earlier-noted expense. With reasonable rental fees, it’s your best bet, if also requiring a little time getting used to running it across your floor.
How Aggressive is That Drum Sander?
Most wood workers would tell you operating a drum sander is almost like trying to tame a wild tiger. Should you not have a little skill in controlling it, the machine could end up being a little hard on you and the wood.
What makes it challenging is it potentially cuts deep grooves into your hardwood if not careful. As you know, using it to begin with helps smooth over any imperfections in your floor, including removing scratches.
Deciding what type of sandpaper grit to use at first can also be challenging. Since you have to change the grit of the sandpaper gradually while sanding, you might have some challenges deciding where to start.
Beginning with 80 to 120 grit is usually recommended once beginning to use a drum sander for the first time. Anything stronger could form deeper grooves into the wood than you readily notice.
A Closer Look At Orbital Sanders
We mentioned orbital sanders earlier as a way to help better smooth out the hardwood. These machines aren’t quite so hard to control and merely vibrate to give a final process to the sanding. Plus, they’re lighter and square shaped to get into tighter areas.
What’s most interesting is orbital sanders are usually designed similarly to drum sanders. They also use sandpaper and have a dust bag picking up most debris.
An alternative to an orbital sander is the vibrating kind and designed almost identically. These tools are fairly gentle on wood, and some might even suggest better to use than the drum sanders.
You still need to use the drum sander if your hardwood floor is overly rough or has a lot of scratches. If your floor doesn’t, it may not need a refinishing right away anyway.
A Closer Look at Edgers
Your edge sander is a tool usually held in your hand while further smoothing over wood along the edges of your walls. These also handle any grain of sandpaper to smooth over excessive scratches along edges.
Using this is far better than having to use sandpaper by hand, something you could do in a small space. Yet, you can’t usually find edge sanders to buy very many places. It’s usually a rental tool, making it an essential add to your rental equipment list as noted.
Can engineered hardwood be refinished?
Let’s revisit that quick look at engineered hardwood flooring and how refinishing works there. Outside of the possibility you’ll have to do fewer refinish jobs on an engineered floor, you might have to do this at least once before needing replacement.
Sometimes it doesn’t need doing at all if you only notice a few damaged planks. These can usually be replaced alone without having to refinish the whole floor.
If you decide to do refinishing anyway, one element of engineered hardwood will make it a little easier overall.
An Engineered Hardwood Floor isn’t Impervious to Scratches and Stains
Yes, the technology in creating quality engineered floors has increased greatly over the last decade. While this means better durability so the floor lasts longer, heavy floor traffic can still bring damage.
All engineered wood is still going to face stains and scratches of varying degrees. How much damage is there will depend on the wear layer of these floors.
When you buy an engineered floor, the manufacturer always lists what the thickness of the wear layer is. In top brands, it’s sometimes as thick as 6-8 mm, giving a lot more durability over the long haul.
Some cheaper brands are available where the wear layer is as little as 1 mm or slightly less. It’s through the wear layer where you’ll decide whether refinishing the floor is really worth the effort.
A Lower Wear Layer Means You Probably Can’t Refinish the Floor
How thick the wear layer is on the engineered wood solely determines refinishing capability. The reason being is when you start using your drum sander, it’s going to cut away small layers of the wood’s surface.
If having a .5 or 1 mm wear layer, the sander will likely cut right through and directly into the plywood. Should this happen, that’s pretty much the end of your engineered hardwood floor.
The thicker the wear layer, the more you have room to keep doing refinishing jobs. When being able to enjoy a heavy, 8 mm wear layer, you can probably refinish at least half-a-dozen times over a decade or longer.
In times when you’re not sure about how thick the wear layer is, you should have a professional check it out for you. Sometimes people inherit a floor they didn’t put in themselves, hence having to research what the wear layer is before any work begins.
Other Times When Refinishing Can’t Be Done on Engineered Floors
Overly severe stains or scratches might require so much sanding, the wear layer just isn’t thick enough to withstand a refinishing.
Any kind of damage from moisture might also create enough damage where refinishing just isn’t practical. Many engineered floors are waterproof, but a severe flood could precipitate replacement.
Sometimes low spots are another problem that can’t be treated on engineered wood as possible with real hardwood. Normally, sanding takes care of that problem, if causing more layers to be stripped away in the engineered wood variety.
There is one workaround if you find out you can’t do refinishing. It involves using a sealer.
You Can More or Less “Refresh” Your Engineered Floor
A good test to determine if you need a sealer is pouring a little water on the wood and seeing if it soaks through. If it does, and you don’t have major wear and tear on the wood, buying a polyurethane sealer is a good bet.
Applying this to the finish already on the wood is a far less expensive option, if perhaps taking a full day to apply if owning a large floor space.
Once again, an oil-based sealer is going to last longer, if also requiring more protective wear on you to prevent breathing fumes. With water-based, you don’t have to protect yourself, albeit being a cheaper sealer to buy.
How to make hardwood floors shine without refinishing
Now we’ve reached the point where you might want to learn about keeping your hardwood floor looking shiny if refinishing isn’t an option.
You might assume if you can’t refinish the floor, it needs replacing. This isn’t the case as seen with the polyurethane sealer option.
More things can be done to keep a solid polish going on the wood so it looks pristine before maybe needing a refinish down the road.
Should You Use Wood Polish?
The basic answer is, if you just want to give a basic shine to your wooden floor, a polishing product will usually work fine. What you need to know here is what kind of surface the hardwood has.
Many engineered hardwood floors use protective layers like urethane to keep it protected from water. These types of surfaces are best made for general polishing products.
Brands like Bona are some of the best on the market. With latter, it’ll only cost a little under $20 for a 32 oz. bottle. One of the benefits of this type of polish is it also helps fill in micro scratches, almost akin to a mini refinishing on its own.
Best of all, a polish like this isn’t toxic to use. Plus, it dries fairly fast, making it easier to start walking on your hardwood floor a day later.
When to Use Wax Instead
One of the biggest blunders with polishing floors is the floor owner not knowing whether the surface is urethane or one with a penetrating finish.
Latter is basically an unsealed wood type that means water soaks in when poured on the surface. In this scenario, using a polishing product could end up doing damage.
Using wax in this instance is better recommended to bring the shine you want. Most flooring experts note waxing is also a good bet if you have very little in the way of damage to the wood’s surface.
If choosing to wax the floor, you’ll want to think about what kind of wax product you’ll use since they do vary in the methods of application.
Solid Paste Wax, or Liquid Wax?
A liquid wax product is the easiest application for wax since all you’ll need is a mop. Brands like Rust-Oleum (from their Watco line) are good examples of this and retail for a reasonable price.
The only downside to liquid wax is you may have to apply multiple coats to get it to adhere. This contrasts with solid paste wax, something potentially messier, if not requiring as many coating layers.
To apply solid paste wax, simply use a soft rag to rub it into the hardwood, following the wood grain patterns. Since this type of wax can potentially get on everything, be sure to remove baseboards and move all furniture out of the way beforehand.
Since the potential is always there of fumes from wax, you’ll need to wear a mask and gloves to protect yourself.
Buffing After Applying Polish or Wax
You can never avoid buffing your hardwood floor, even if you skip doing any refinishing for now.
The only way to really get that floor to shine is to buff it after the wax or polish application. Again, you may have to rent a small floor buffer to get this done.
Before using the buffer, you can use a towel on the solid wax to start a manual buffing process. With liquid wax, do this with a simple mop.
After the buffing is done, let the wax sit overnight before moving everything back in place. Since polish and waxing can last up to several years, all possibility exists you can avert refinishing if your floor traffic isn’t tremendous.
How to restore hardwood floors without refinishing
Some other methods exist in restoring your hardwood so you don’t have to go through the time, cost, and physical strain of refinishing.
Thankfully, these steps are easier while helping to give a more revived look to the hardwood. All that’s involved is the time element, something requiring at least a couple of hours.
Incidentally, these steps remove sanding from the equation. Those who’ve ever done floor sanding in the past know cleanup isn’t always pretty. The dust bags on tools like the drum sander simply are not quite as thorough as one would think.
When You Don’t Have to Do Sanding
If you have laminate or prefinished hardwood floors, sanding isn’t really necessary. Sanding just isn’t practical on these floors since their wear layers are fairly thin. Too much sanding will potentially ruin them.
In these cases, you can do other things other than sanding to get them to look new again. Basic cleaning once per week should always be on your calendar. Simple sweeping and vacuuming will prevent stains and scratches from catching up with you.
Also, if the floor was already waxed a while ago, you probably won’t have to worry about sanding either. Usually, a new wax coating is only necessary (for now) in keeping the floor looking pristine.
Older homes with floors waxed many years ago also don’t need sanding. It’s always more difficult, though, to know what you’re working with if moving into a home with a floor you didn’t see go in. Hiring a professional to check out the materials is again essential before using any floor restore method.
Removing Old Finish to Apply a New Finish
You don’t have to sand to get rid of old finish either if you want to put down new stains and finishes.
The best approach here is using a chemical stain stripper product. When applied, you’ll have to wait a few hours before you can start scraping off the old finish. You’re better off starting this in the morning because of the drying time needed.
Go get a scraper you may have in a toolbox and scrape off the old finish with gentle pressure. Like you do when applying stains and finish, scrape in the direction of the grain in the wood.
After this point, you should let the chemical stain sit overnight to dry completely. In the morning, it should be dry enough to start applying new finish with a basic paintbrush. Like you do with a normal refinishing, it might take a few days for the finish to dry before moving furniture back in place.
Quickie Revitalizer Products to Make Your Floor Look Better
Revitalizers and restorer products are around as the most basic way to restore your floor when all other options are too time-consuming. Consider these similar to wood polish.
Call this the true budget restoration, one many people selling homes use as a quick fix in making their hardwood floors look newer. Most importantly, it’s something you can do on your own without needing many tools or any professionals.
All you’ll need is a mop to apply the liquid. Keep in mind you should cover your baseboards just to protect from the revitalizer possibly splattering.
When in a hurry, this is the best product you can buy to dry within a short time. For scenarios where you expect a prospective buyer to your home the same day, the revitalizer application typically dries in less than an hour.